Wednesday, May 27, 2015

Its just a Bump to the Left and Bump to the Right

It could have been a horror story.

Its done my Dewhusrt type Forward Reverse switch is fitted and running.

I had to call Ken to give me a hand to fit two Jarrah rising blocks I had made to raise the ML7 up so wiring could fit under the lathe out of the bottom of the Dewhurst switch.
Thanks Ken.















I had to call on a fellow forum member or two Paul and Tony both electrically minded to take on the job. Tony works with electrical all day and he took over totally and completed the job after they had worked out the motor and switch were compatible and would work. That was one days worth.

Tony returned a fortnight latter to re-wire motor to switch as scorching had happened at the motor end and at the relay end. Replace the relay with a new connector 25amp, wire up the Dewhurst switch using 3phase cable, wire that to switch and motor. Tony also fitted a new box for all to snugly fit into, mount the main On/Off switch and a new bracket fitted to mount the whole lot to the stand.

Tony did a brilliant truly professional job thanks heaps Tony.

The Motor is a Hoover not the normal Compton parkinson
The Dewhurst switch is a Kelly an Australian brand marked on top as Reverse to left Forward to right, Tony wired it so it is Forward to the left and Reverse to the right which I required.

Below are photos of the motor type, inside cover of the wire schematics and the inside motor wiring.


Below the relay which Paul found two wires fell off with no assistance at all, also found the scourch on the side. One pin snapped the other lead fell off the pin. 



 Paul & Tony he's the one down doing all the hard yakka doing pre-testing wiring.





 I had to make a spacer to allow fitting of the Dewhurst switch this fit behind the case and mounts to the cast of the bed allowing room behind the switch and clearance of the leadscrew.


Tony measuring up the new mounting bracket and the switch box mounted and part wired up.


















The 3phase cable for the F/R switch.
















All mounted and secure. Works a dream, the Dewhurst switch stop in central position to full stop pressing Main STOP disengages all power.




Tony's wire schematic below




Tony brought along his beautiful daughter Beth who sat and read most of the day, come lunch time Beth helped Sue make Pizza for lunch. It went down well thanks Beth & Sue.




Sunday, April 12, 2015

Snake Eye Bolt Tool

Mark's doing some interesting work at the moment in the building sector, he spoke to me about another tool he required for work and asked if I could make it up his idea is simple but unique. After seeing the Snake Eye Stainless Steel bolt and him explaining what he required it was an easy job

 Two Snake Eye Bolts belwo the one on the right with the X on was one Mark found in the batch when working which was usless due to the holes being odd sizes hence rendering it usless.
What was wanted was a Snake Eye Bolt Tool!! The tool has to be strong enough to tighten or loosen the bolts yet not damage the Stainless Steel surface when used. Mark had been supplied a spanner type tool which has major restrictions of use in many situations, lack of space.

What we created was simple enough to do.

All that was required was the drill press and cross slide drill vice and a grinder with a cut off wheel.
Drilling the Snake eyes of the bolt right through the dia hole drilled was 9/64 this gave a tight fit and inserting sheer pins a pressed fit (hammered actually) into place protruding approx 4mm. I had some sheer pins Ken had given me which were ideal for the job.

Below is one pin already fitted and cut off the second ready to be cut.

 
 Mark will fit three M12 nuts to the bolt locking them together this will allow him to use a socket and bar to tighten or loosen them. I'll get him to send me a photo when he's done that and maybe when in use and add it here.

I have used the spanners on push bikes and other mechanical devices the spanner is often useless as the pins break or as Mark has found work area restricts positioning and use of such.

In searching I found two tools one I would not use in a situation where finished appearance to a job is noticed thats this type.



The second type is more user friendly although torque applied may still shear the pins even on the one we have made.
 

Of course each bolt size needs its own spanner/socket to suit.







Saturday, April 4, 2015

Impact Socket Wall Reduction

Mark (our oldest son) required an impact socket reduced in wall size from 20.85mm to 18mm for a specific work related job he does. It also had to be made to reach deeper so removal of a step area was done also.

Being a wet day out side I closed the garage door and had a go, being an Impact socket it has a thicker wall and heat treatment gives impact sockets a black colour as well s hardens them more.

Impact Sockets

Many applications use air driven or electric impact wrench or impact driver to deliver the amount of shock and torque required to tighten or loosen the different bolts or nuts in use. Inside an impact wrench there is a rotating hammer, usually driven by electricity or air pressure, that is used to incrementally rotate their output shaft. The impact wrench is designed to deliver high torque output with minimal exertion by the user, by storing energy in a rotating mass, then delivering it suddenly to the output shaft. Some impact wrenches can deliver over 600 ft-lb (815 Nm) of torque which is enough to break many common fasteners. Even if the socket, attached to the impact wrench, does not turn it is hit with successive hammer blows by the impact wrench's internal hammer. These successive blows are often enough to loosen or tighten a tight or corroded nut or bolt or in some cases break or strip the fastener. Impact wrenches are hard on the sockets since the sockets in use also get hammered. Regular chrome plated "hand sockets" like those commonly included with hand ratchet wrench tool sets are not suitable for this kind of high load impact application. Hand sockets, when used with an impact wrench, can break or shatter explosively if they are used with an impact wrench. Impact sockets are specifically designed and manufactured for impact gun use, and are nearly always made from a thicker, tougher and more ductile alloy steel that is then heat treated for extra durability. Most impact sockets made for "standard" hexagonal fasteners have a six point design. For more flexibility many impact sockets are made with swivel type socket—socket wrench attachment geometry. These impact sockets are rarely, if ever, chrome-plated, as chrome will chip off under impact use, and the process of chrome plating causes some hydrogen embrittlement which slightly weakens "standard" chrome plated sockets. Instead, impact sockets are most commonly finished with a black oxide surface or other coating to provide corrosion and rust protection and improved appearance even after hard impact wrench use. Although ordinary hand sockets should never be used with impact wrenches, impact sockets can be used with hand socket wrenches and other hand drivers. Though in cases of extreme force they may fail at a lower torque rate due to their more ductile qualities.





 Left;- Socket prior reduction its a 12mm hex. Max point width internal is 14mm.

Right:- Using the Carbide tool as the HSS wouldn't cut.





Below:- Socket after machining a 4mm wall.
 Below:- Checking dia.

This possibly needs heat treatment again I am checking on that.

Metals

  • Standard sockets are typically constructed of polished Chrome Vanadium steel. This type of tool provides qualities such as resistance to flexing and a lack of porosity, which allows you to easily clean the sockets and naturally resist rust.Manufacturers construct impact sockets of hot forged Chrome Vanadium steel with a significantly thicker socket wall. Not only does this heat treatment produce a harder surface, it also imparts a darker coloration to the metal, which helps you distinguish impact sockets from standard sockets in the tool box. The thicker socket wall provides additional socket strength to the tool, helping to prevent cracks from forming in the thinnest areas of the socket wall.


Read more : http://www.ehow.com/info_8096190_different-impact-socket-regular-socket.html

Metals

  • Standard sockets are typically constructed of polished Chrome Vanadium steel. This type of tool provides qualities such as resistance to flexing and a lack of porosity, which allows you to easily clean the sockets and naturally resist rust.Manufacturers construct impact sockets of hot forged Chrome Vanadium steel with a significantly thicker socket wall. Not only does this heat treatment produce a harder surface, it also imparts a darker coloration to the metal, which helps you distinguish impact sockets from standard sockets in the tool box. The thicker socket wall provides additional socket strength to the tool, helping to prevent cracks from forming in the thinnest areas of the socket wall.


Read more : http://www.ehow.com/info_8096190_different-impact-socket-regular-socket.html

Metals

  • Standard sockets are typically constructed of polished Chrome Vanadium steel. This type of tool provides qualities such as resistance to flexing and a lack of porosity, which allows you to easily clean the sockets and naturally resist rust.Manufacturers construct impact sockets of hot forged Chrome Vanadium steel with a significantly thicker socket wall. Not only does this heat treatment produce a harder surface, it also imparts a darker coloration to the metal, which helps you distinguish impact sockets from standard sockets in the tool box. The thicker socket wall provides additional socket strength to the tool, helping to prevent cracks from forming in the thinnest areas of the socket wall.


Read more : http://www.ehow.com/info_8096190_different-impact-socket-regular-socket.html

Metals

  • Standard sockets are typically constructed of polished Chrome Vanadium steel. This type of tool provides qualities such as resistance to flexing and a lack of porosity, which allows you to easily clean the sockets and naturally resist rust.Manufacturers construct impact sockets of hot forged Chrome Vanadium steel with a significantly thicker socket wall. Not only does this heat treatment produce a harder surface, it also imparts a darker coloration to the metal, which helps you distinguish impact sockets from standard sockets in the tool box. The thicker socket wall provides additional socket strength to the tool, helping to prevent cracks from forming in the thinnest areas of the socket wall.


Read more : http://www.ehow.com/info_8096190_different-impact-socket-regular-socket.html

Sunday, March 29, 2015

Warped & Twisted

Sue has a warping board which she was given to her some years ago, but the dowels were only nailed or secured by a screw to the frame and were shorter than she would prefer.

A trip to Masters  big blue shed and she chose some Poplar board 60x20x 1200 and dowel 25 x 1500. Poplar is a hardwood but very light weight.

Frame size is 1100x450 with 14 dowels and 16 holes all taped and threaded. This makes storing much easier and a main part of Sue's request for easy storage. A number of coats of Minwax wipe on polly to seal and finish it.

I just used lap joints secured with glue and riven pins.





 One dowel hole tapped off square darn it.

A warping board is used to prepare the material be it wool, silk, cotton or some other for the warp on a loom. The weft is the strands which run through the warp which run from rear to front which is the base for the weave.

Tuesday, March 24, 2015

A Dowel Drilling Jig

For years I have had my Dad's dowel drilling jig, in that time I think I have used it once. Problem was it only had 1/4" guide to use, I made 3 new metric guides 6, 8 and 10mm.

A job I was making the 6mm guide for change direction but still the Dowel Jig got its first use in many a year today.
I had two x two wheelchair rims given to me, one from daughter Belinda which had a problem with the ring grip stays. The other from a fellow down in Ballarat Phil they were rather in need of much work as spokes were bent bent but the grip rims were fine and were the type which bolt on not screw on.

So in using the dowel jig to line up to guide the drill four new holes were drilled into Belinda's rims fitting Phil's grip rims I now have a set of spare rims. At least these rims have spokes which are laced unlike my present rims which flex often.




 I think its time it had a clean up to remove some surface rust also.



Friday, March 6, 2015

Hebridian II Finally Finished

http://cdn.counter-currents.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/QueenVictoria4.jpg
Queen Victoria
One upon a time, Long long ago.........a man built a wheel 200 years latter I had to repair and restore that wheel.

It all began back in  February 26th 2010. I knew what I was in for the moment I laid eyes on it.
"Can you make me one"?.

Being the person I am how could I say NO!!!!

Ok so five years latter.........can't rush these things can we.

As I restored what became known as Isla I made parts to replace the damaged  two castles, they where not required so they were for Orla as Sue has named her.

I copied and created and redesigned as the need became apparent from the restoration transposing to the new over the years.
The bases of a wheel is as shown here.

In making spare Bobbins for Isla I made six new ones for Ola.

Try as I may even stepping away fro the Ornamental Turners to get this finished still I found the word NO when asked to do other projects hard to say.
Ready to start again
Still with much to do after Isla had been handed over, I was able to set about and continue the work.
I had yet to make the Footman, Connecting Rod, The wheel itself, The Flyer, make adjustments to parts long ago made. I had decided rather than to risk shrinkage and ill fitting to leave some timber to turn, sand or machine away and yet with weather things still changed.

The the Whorl/s (two were made various sizes to suit Sue spinning style) had to be refined to size and drilled. These need to be a tight fit to the shaft as its this connected by drive band to the wheel that makes the flyer spin. 
The Flyer axle shaft had to be re-machined removing 10mm from the feed end to allow the whorl, bobbin and flyer arm to move over that distance to align better with the wheel and to not come into contact with the castle like Isla's had.

The Flyer and axle shaft fitted together as a push fit, twelve holes drilled to fit the required hooks. These were off set to each other either side as Sue requested, it allows for a more even feed across the bobbin rather than a hills and valley arrangement.

A second flyer is to be made which will allow larger bobbins this means I'll have to make a second shaft the first was made by Greg Gossip as was the main wheel shaft which was then forged to shape by a Blacksmith from the Blue mountains Wyndham is his name.

The main Hub had to be drilled and shaped by file to take the square section of the shaft.

The longest leg when originally made was a concern as it had an amount of Oak Burl area which was at the top end it broke during a removal it had shown signs of weakness. Darrell Smith from OTGA was able to supply me with a better piece and I had it turned and fitted the next day.

To look at the whole wheel one would say a number of Oak trees supplied the wood but majority was all cut from the same log. Alan Flett supplied me with a board of Oak as I had to remake the fellows of the wheel thicker than they had been dressed to 22mm and were very spalted. I couldn't risk warping or weak wall thickness after drilling holes for the spokes.

The two wheel uprights had to have the axle slots cut as well as removal of material and length adjustments made.

Sue had asked for the Footman not be as Isla's was but to have the joint hidden. So I used Mortise and Tenon joints to connect to the rocker shaft joint. While I just removed enough material forming mortise on both where both parts crossed over not quite making them level on purpose.

The adjustment knob and block had to be threaded also the hole in the main table had to be shaped to suit the taper of the knob.
Thanks goes to mark Alyward for the loan of his 3/4 x 6tpi Wood Threading Kit this save me for now making or buying my own and allowed me to complete the project sooner. I did a test cut of thread on an old broom handle it didn't go well as per the instructions and suggestion from Mark I soaked the oak handle in Neats Foot oil over night. It cut much better although some chipping of the thread occurred a little CA fixed that.

The same goes for Alan Flett who took the fellows I had cut to make the wheel, he used Domino's and Tongue and Groove to join them. He also cut the outside radius leaving me the inside to mark out for length of spokes, then for me to cut that and drill the spoke holes and glue and assemble.
The axle shaft had to be machined to size of the hub I had to remove square section each side by approx 8mm. Again this is just a push fit with a drop of CA each end to secure.

I had to add a base section to the maiden support this was to give a better height supporting the centre pin as well as coverage of the slot which the maiden slides back o when adjusted. The material I had to make the block was not high/thick enough.




A new main leg after the first cracked where burl was.

adding height to the Maiden support.
The unfinished grain
The large knot adding to the character


My makeshift scraper Alan's old plain blade

Footman





Drilling out Mortice for footman







Cutting threads for the adjuster.


Original design for spokes






Above left, fitting the Maiden.
Above right the flyer assembled and drilled.

Left flyer mounted.

Right hub and spoke.

Below aligning spoke to rim to true the inner dia and mark spoke position.



Above the bottom of the main wheel castles sitting below the bed. Right soaking in oil so they can have a thread cut. Oak lock nuts turned and threaded fitted to castles below. This stops movement and allows tension over time.



The wheel was set up to true after assembly, after going along so well Murphys Law  dropped in for a visit.

In mounting the assembled wheel onto the lathe to true the outer rim and cut the groove for the drive band, everything was going well then all of a sudden the whole thing went out of round and set a wobble in as well. No matter what I tried where I placed the chuck it just wanted to do its own thing.

 
Above the first wheel felloes being faced, truing centre aligning spokes to rim and marking out. Left the truing up using Cole Jaws assembled wheel.

This is where it all went wrong, I believe the force of cutting tool even though light had moved spokes in opposing directions. It should not have being the Cole Jaws were used.
That wheel became scrap and I proceeded to make new spokes and hub. Mean while Alan had on the same day tried to fight with a router and lost part of his finger. Alan was incremental in making the felloes for me. So with months of healing time and a few other things like Christmas, Birthdays, summer heat we both took to doing what we could on other works. Alan dropped off the new felloes still English Oak but what a contrast in colour grain and even between sides, still there is not much I could do timber is timber.
These were mortised and tenon or some would say tongue and grove jointed, much stronger and longer tongue than previous felloes and a little wider.
The new hub was not as good as the original so I scavenged that one and went to work making all fit. Alan had also made up Rivin Pins (dowels), these were to secure the felloes together. No glue has been used to allow for movement as in years gone by seeing what movement has taken place on two of Sue's other wheels that were glued it will make repair easier if ever it needs to be.

The Mother Of Awl required some fine tuning and whorls drilled to suit the shaft with a tight push on fit. A lock peg made and a connecting rod between footman and crank. The flyer shaft some machining and a pin fitted to lock all together.

Once all assembled and a test run proved successful it become apparent the wheel was almost done just minor adjustments and of course a full test to do.

I dare say Sue will ask for some changes or further adjustments as time goes by I will gladly do them and I hope in years to come someone will look back into its history.

A new style spoke and hub below the spokes were resize to length once the new felloes were trued.
This time using the cole jaws and the riven pins it was much easier and it proved the best way not having hub and axle and spokes fitted.

New spokes.

 Dry fit of the rim, holes drilled for Rivin Pins.


 Clamping to bring it all together.



 Above Rivin Pins helped realign and tighten it all after fitting they were trimmed. Note the colour and grain on this side compared to the side below.

Oiled and mounted.

 Again the colour variation.


 Above and below all assembled for test run

Minor work to do includes trim the wheel castles by 1/2", leather shaft carries cut for the Maiden flyer. Drive Band fitted, connecting rod fitted,

Final photos and video of it in full working order will be added over the coming weeks.

Thanks goes to the following:-

To all who have followed patiently this build many thanks

Darrell Smith and Tom Cattell from OTGA who supplied me with all the English Oak except for the felloes. Darrelle also cut and dressed it to rough sizes.

Wyndham the Blue Mnts Blacksmith for forging the crank.

Greg Gossip for machining the main axle and the flyer shaft.


Alan Flett who supplied the original master copy and English Oak for the Felloes as well as dressed and produced the joints.

Sue who patiently waited the years while other projects jumped queue, supported me in many ways more than she knows throughout the build. Her constant help when I needed it. The many photos taken I hope she gets years of pleasure out of it.

Conclusion:-
My fault I never documented time when build this wheel a big mistake on my part.
Would I build another? YES!
This time no interruptions.
Would I use English oak again? Yes! OR Rosewood or maybe even Huon Pine.